How to Prevent Overgrown Teeth in Rabbits: A Guide from Experience

I remember the first time I heard about overgrown teeth in rabbits, I was genuinely surprised. I’d always known that rabbits were avid chewers—I mean, mine practically tried to renovate my baseboards—but I hadn’t realized that chewing wasn’t just a quirky habit. It was a medical necessity.

What I thought was just a behavioral quirk turned out to be vital for their health. Rabbit teeth never stop growing. Let that sink in. Unlike ours, which are fixed, a rabbit’s teeth can grow several millimeters every week.

In the wild, their diet naturally wears their teeth down. But in a domestic environment, if the conditions aren’t just right, this growth can become a serious problem—leading to pain, infection, and difficulty eating.

So, if you're a rabbit owner—new or experienced—understanding how to prevent overgrown teeth in rabbits is one of the most important things you can do. In this article, I’ll walk you through the key habits, tools, and daily practices that helped keep my own rabbit, Willow, healthy, happy, and chewing properly.

Understanding the Problem: Why Do Rabbit Teeth Overgrow?

Let’s start at the root of it (no pun intended). Rabbits have 28 teeth—six incisors in the front and a complex array of molars in the back, all of which grow continuously throughout their lives. This evolutionary trait is perfectly suited for the wild, where rabbits spend their days gnawing on fibrous grasses and rough vegetation.

However, in a domestic setting, that natural wear and tear doesn’t always happen. If their diet lacks the right texture, or if they don’t have access to appropriate things to chew on, those teeth can overgrow. And when that happens, it's not just uncomfortable—it can be dangerous.

Overgrown teeth can:

• Cause painful mouth sores

• Cut into the tongue or cheeks

• Lead to abscesses or infections

• Make it hard for your rabbit to eat

• Eventually result in starvation if left untreated

Willow had a minor dental issue in her second year. She’d started drooling a little and wasn’t quite as enthusiastic about her hay. I didn’t think much of it until I noticed she was losing weight. The vet diagnosed her with early signs of molar overgrowth. We caught it early, thankfully—but it made me completely reevaluate how I approached her diet and environment.

1. Hay, Hay, and More Hay

The single most important thing you can do to prevent overgrown teeth in rabbits is provide unlimited access to hay. And I really do mean unlimited.

Hay is high in fiber and low in calories, making it perfect not just for digestion but for dental wear. It mimics the kind of forage rabbits would eat in the wild and naturally grinds down their teeth as they chew.

I learned that not all hay is created equal. Willow loved timothy hay, but I also rotated in orchard grass and meadow hay to keep things interesting. I made sure it was always fresh, dry, and accessible. I even started stuffing it into paper towel rolls and cardboard tubes to encourage foraging behaviors.

A good rule of thumb: hay should make up 80–90% of your rabbit’s diet. If there’s ever a time you’re worried your rabbit is bored with hay, change up the brand or presentation—but never the quantity.

2. Keep Pellet Portions in Check

This one surprised me. I always thought that giving Willow plenty of high-quality pellets would be a good thing. But too many pellets can actually discourage rabbits from eating enough hay—especially since pellets are easier to chew and more calorie-dense.

Too little hay = not enough tooth wear.

So, I began treating pellets more like a daily supplement rather than the main course. About 1/8 to 1/4 cup per 5 lbs. of body weight per day is more than enough for most adult rabbits. After I made that adjustment, Willow started diving back into her hay with more enthusiasm.

3. Offer Plenty of Chewing Enrichment

In the wild, rabbits chew constantly—not just to eat, but to interact with their environment. So, naturally, domestic rabbits benefit from safe, chewable items that simulate this behavior.

Here are some of the items that became staples in our home:

• Apple and willow branches (free from pesticides)

• Cardboard boxes and tunnels

• Seagrass mats

• Untreated wooden toys

• Woven hay balls or tunnels

I rotated these toys weekly to keep things fresh. Watching Willow gnaw contentedly on a stick was more than just adorable—it was a tiny act of self-care she instinctively performed. Enrichment like this is one of the easiest ways to support dental health naturally.

4. Regular Health Checks at Home

Catching problems early is half the battle. Even if you’re doing everything right, some rabbits—especially certain breeds like lops and dwarfs—are genetically prone to dental issues due to the shape of their skulls.

That’s why I made it a point to do gentle health checks every week. Here’s what I looked for:

• Drooling or wetness around the chin

• Loss of appetite or reluctance to eat hay

• Excessive tooth grinding (a sign of pain)

• Discharge from the eyes or nose

• Swelling around the jaw or cheeks

• Uneaten cecotropes (soft droppings)

These signs can be subtle at first. But noticing them early could mean the difference between a mild trim and a more serious dental surgery.

5. Schedule Regular Vet Visits

Even if everything looks fine, having a vet check your rabbit’s teeth once or twice a year is essential. Rabbits rarely show discomfort openly, so a professional exam—especially with a scope to see the molars—can reveal things we’d miss.

When Willow had her minor molar issue, the vet gently filed her teeth under sedation. It was quick, and she recovered within a day. Since then, our routine visits became non-negotiable. Prevention was far less stressful (and expensive) than waiting for a crisis.

6. Watch the Weather: Heat and Dental Health

This one took me by surprise. During hot summer months, Willow’s hay consumption dipped. She was lethargic, stayed in the shade, and seemed less interested in food. That meant less chewing, which quietly impacted her dental wear.

To counteract this, I began:

• Offering hay in cooler parts of the day (early morning, evening)

• Mixing dried herbs like chamomile or mint into her hay to entice her

• Making hay more interactive by hiding it in toys

• Ensuring she had plenty of airflow and cool surfaces

It reminded me how many environmental factors could affect something as internal as teeth.

7. Avoid Sugary or Sticky Treats

It’s tempting to offer your rabbit bits of fruit or store-bought treats, especially when those big eyes are begging. But sugary or sticky foods don’t just harm the gut—they can also cause plaque buildup and soft chewing habits.

I reserved fruit for very special occasions, and I always avoided yogurt drops or seed sticks. Instead, I offered:

• A sprig of fresh herbs

• A slice of cucumber

• A piece of crunchy kale stem

These healthier treats helped maintain Willow’s dental health while still giving her something special.

8. Stay in Tune with Your Rabbit’s Behavior

Every rabbit is different. Willow was more expressive than most, and I learned to recognize her rhythms. If she stopped doing her usual morning zoomies, or turned down her favorite mint sprig, I took it seriously.

Behavioral shifts, even minor ones, are often the first signs of discomfort. Staying connected and observant helped me catch problems before they worsened.

When Prevention Isn’t Enough

Sometimes, despite all efforts, overgrown teeth still happen. Genetics, prior dental injuries, or age can all play a role. If your rabbit develops severe dental issues—such as tooth root elongation or abscesses—they may require surgery or ongoing care.

In these cases, working closely with an experienced rabbit vet is crucial. They can help create a long-term care plan, and you can still support your bunny with the same daily tools: good food, safe chewables, and lots of love.

FAQ: How to Prevent Overgrown Teeth in Rabbits

1. How do I know if my rabbit's teeth are getting too long? Are there warning signs I can look for at home?

Absolutely—there are definitely some subtle (and not-so-subtle) signs you can watch for that might indicate your rabbit’s teeth are getting too long. Since rabbits often hide pain or discomfort, changes in behavior are often your first clue. You might notice your bunny is eating less hay, favoring softer foods, or even dropping food from their mouth while chewing. Excessive drooling, wetness under the chin, or a matted appearance around the face can also be red flags.

In my case, Willow started acting a little “off.” She wasn’t bounding to the hay rack like she used to and started nibbling her greens more slowly. That alone told me something was up. Another thing to watch for is the condition of their front paws—if they’re wiping their face more than usual, or their paws are damp and sticky, they may be struggling with oral discomfort. Regular weekly checks and staying in tune with your rabbit’s habits go a long way in catching early signs before they turn serious.

2. Can I just give my rabbit wooden toys to chew on instead of focusing so much on hay?

Wooden toys definitely help—but they’re not a replacement for hay. Hay is the gold standard when it comes to preventing overgrown teeth in rabbits because it wears down all the teeth, including the molars in the back that your rabbit can’t really use on toys.

Toys are fantastic for enrichment and can support front incisor wear, but they don’t provide the same dental benefits as long strands of hay. Think of wooden chews as “bonus tools”—they’re great for keeping your bunny mentally engaged and supplementing their chewing routine, but they’re just one piece of the puzzle.

For Willow, I always had a rotation of apple sticks, seagrass mats, and cardboard tunnels. But none of those ever replaced the mountain of hay she had access to every day. Keep the toys coming, by all means—but make hay the main course.

3. What kind of hay is best for wearing down teeth, and does variety matter?

Great question! While timothy hay is the most commonly recommended type (especially for adult rabbits), there are several types of hay that offer similar dental benefits—and variety can definitely help keep your bunny interested.

Timothy hay is coarse and fibrous, which makes it excellent for grinding down teeth naturally. Other great options include:

• Orchard grass – a bit softer, which some picky rabbits prefer

• Meadow hay – a mix of grasses that adds variety

• Oat hay – often more textured, with tasty seed heads for added appeal

Switching it up every so often can keep even the fussiest rabbits from getting bored. For example, I noticed Willow got bored with timothy hay alone after a while, so I started blending in orchard grass and even a sprinkle of dried herbs. Suddenly she was excited about hay again. A little novelty goes a long way when it comes to keeping their teeth (and appetite) in check.

4. My rabbit eats pellets and greens daily—do they still need hay if they seem healthy?

Yes, yes, and definitely yes—hay isn’t optional, even if your rabbit seems fine on a diet of pellets and greens. Pellets and leafy vegetables might meet some of your rabbit’s nutritional needs, but they don’t provide nearly enough fiber or dental wear to prevent tooth overgrowth.

The act of slowly grinding down tough, fibrous hay strands is what naturally files down their constantly growing teeth—particularly the molars, which pellets and greens barely touch. Rabbits who skip hay are at a much higher risk for dental problems, gastrointestinal issues, and even behavioral changes due to discomfort.

Pellets should be treated more like a supplement, not the main course. In my home, pellets were like a little side dish—something Willow looked forward to but never depended on. If your rabbit is reluctant to eat hay, try offering a different type or mixing it with herbs until they get used to it.

5. Are some rabbits more prone to dental problems than others, even with a good diet?

Unfortunately, yes. Just like people, rabbits have different genetics, and some are naturally more prone to dental issues regardless of how well you care for them. Flat-faced breeds (like Holland Lops or Netherland Dwarfs) often have skull shapes that can cause misalignment of the teeth. This means their teeth don’t wear evenly, even with proper diet and chewing.

Older rabbits are also more susceptible as their bones and muscles change with age. I learned that firsthand when Willow got older and her jaw alignment shifted slightly. Even though her diet was on point, her molars still needed occasional filing at the vet.

If your rabbit falls into one of these categories, regular dental check-ups are even more important. A good vet can spot minor changes early and recommend preventive action—sometimes including scheduled tooth trims or x-rays to monitor internal tooth growth.

6. What should I do if my rabbit’s teeth already seem overgrown? Can this be treated at home?

If you suspect your rabbit’s teeth are already overgrown—whether it's from visible elongation of the front teeth, signs of pain, or changes in eating habits—don’t try to fix it at home. Unlike trimming a dog’s nails, rabbit dental care requires specialized tools and expertise. Attempting to trim teeth yourself can lead to fractures, infection, or more misalignment.

Your best bet is to schedule a vet visit as soon as possible. The vet may need to perform a tooth trim under sedation, depending on how bad the overgrowth is. They’ll also check for any underlying issues, like abscesses or jaw deformities.

After the vet visit, your job is to focus on prevention: improve hay intake, offer more chewable enrichment, and monitor behavior closely. When Willow had her dental procedure, I focused on keeping her diet perfect and her stress levels low—which helped her bounce back quickly and avoid repeat issues.

Final Thoughts: Small Habits, Big Impact

Learning how to prevent overgrown teeth in rabbits taught me a lot—not just about rabbit care, but about paying attention to the little things. It’s amazing how a habit as simple as topping off a hay rack or offering a stick to chew can make such a big difference in your rabbit’s quality of life.

Willow lived to be a happy, hoppy senior, and while we had a few dental scares along the way, we always came through them stronger. Every week I checked her teeth, every new hay variety we tried, every chew toy we tested—it was all part of a conversation we were having, one quiet hop at a time.

So if you're here, reading this, know that you’re already doing something right. Preventing overgrown teeth in rabbits isn’t about perfection—it’s about consistency, awareness, and a whole lot of care. And your bunny? They’ll thank you for it, in their own quiet, twitchy-nosed way.